Inside ‘Pathos Formulas,’ IED’s Fashion Exhibit at Pitti Uomo 110 Firenze – Latest Fashion Trends & Style Tips June 22, 2026 at 10:00PM
📰 Inside ‘Pathos Formulas,’ IED’s Fashion Exhibit at Pitti Uomo 110 Firenze
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Pathos Formulas was an exhibition and installation project presented by IEDIstituto Europeo di Design at the ex-Teatro dell'Oriuolo (Oriuolo Theatre) during Pitti Uomo no. 110. It took the form of a research space in which fashion, visual arts and editorial practices intertwined in a shared reflection.
The project was curated by Francesca Gavin, Editor-in-Chief of EPOCH Review and Director of Visual Arts at Murmur. Author of numerous books on art and visual culture, Gavin is an internationally active curator whose experience includes Manifesta 11, Somerset House, Palais de Tokyo and MU Eindhoven. She also hosts the radio programme Rough Version on NTS Radio.
Pictures by Stefano Casatti and Cristina Andolcetti
"Pathos Formulas is a very contemporary exhibition project, deeply rooted in fashion, presenting the work of 17 IED students," explained Francesca Gavin. "The exhibition highlights how our experience of the world around us is shaped by human history, and how the creative innovations of today can become part of a dialogue that continues across generations."
The initiative brought together the practices of students from multiple design fields: fashion design, styling, photography, graphic design, video, sound and interior design, activating an intrinsically transdisciplinary device. Fashion was taken as a starting point: a language through which the spread and transformation of images, gestures and narratives could be observed.
"For IED, Pathos Formulas reveals a way of working in which disciplines are in dialogue and interwoven. The project takes shape through an open process built on relationships and connections between different time periods. It is a space for exchange, an active surface, where images become research tools that move between what we recognize and what still remains to be defined," explained Benedetta Lenzi, Director of IED Firenze.
Pictures by Stefano Casatti and Cristina Andolcetti
At the heart of the research is Aby Warburg's concept of Pathosformel, understood as a principle governing the transmission and reactivation of expressive forms over time. The project conceived history as a non-linear structure, questioning how symbols, motifs and visual forms migrate, layer and re-emerge in new cultural contexts.
In dialogue with the Florentine context — an emblematic site for Warburgian reflection — the project unfolded as an open archive. It became a space of resonance in which the past is continually reactivated in the present. Here, "pathos formulas" was understood as visual and psychological citations that can move across epochs and geographies, transcending the boundaries of individual cultural traditions.
Pathos Formulas was part of the 60th anniversary year of IED.Plural Intelligences is the theme introduced for the anniversary and explored through a public programme and the journal Notes on Plural Intelligences. Its third issue, Future Memories, featuring an artocñe by Francesca Gavin, was presented and distributed at the ex-Teatro dell'Oriuolo (Oriuolo Theatre) during Pitti Uomo.
Pictures by Stefano Casatti and Cristina Andolcetti
Future Memories provided the common thread linking the journal to Pathos Formulas. They arise in a concrete place, between technology and human experience. As technologies and artificial intelligence reconstruct cultures and histories, memory remains anchored in rituals of communion, shared stories and everyday acts of conviviality. Archives are therefore essential tools to be built and learned from: living spaces where data and narratives meet to define not only how we remember, but why remembering matters.
A spin-off of Pathos Formulas will take place from 22 to 25 October as part of Ultra REF, the special section of Romaeuropa dedicated to experimentation and the cross-fertilisation of different artistic languages.
SECTIONS OF THE EXHIBITION
The exhibition took shape through nine research clusters developed by working groups bringing together designers, photographers, stylists, and visual artists. "It unfolded as a space of resonance in which the past is continually reactivated in the present,"Gavin explained.
The exhibition showcased the work of a multidisciplinary team of seventeen students from all IED Group campuses: Marisol Arreola, Video Design, IED Roma; Alexandra Barkova Graphic Design, IED Barcelona; Elisabetta Boffi, Fashion Design, IED Firenze; Alessia Boldrini, Fashion Stylist, IED Firenze; Emma Brondi, Illustration, IED Firenze; Maria Chiara Delli Santi, Sound Design, IED Milano; Luca Dessì, Fashion Design, IED Torino; Asia Di Biccari, Fashion Stylist, IED Milano; Alejandro Dominguez, Graphic Design, IED Madrid; Raffaella Faizulina, Fashion Design, IED Milano; Martina Giusti, Interior Design, IED Cagliari; Lara Jagoic, Textile Design, Accademia di Como Aldo Galli; Alberto Michisanti, Fashion Stylist, IED Milano; Matteo Rosadi, Photography, IED Roma; Luca Tomei, Fashion Design, IED Roma; Geo Vergnano, Photography, IED Torino; Joane Zabala, Fashion Design, IED Kunsthal Bilbao.
Pictures by Stefano Casatti and Cristina Andolcetti
The exhibition space brought together seven projects, which were realised in pairs and two individual projects. A soundwork interacted with all the pieces, weaving their various themes into a sonic score that filled the exhibition space. An editorial graphic design project also brought the works together in a coherent, modular archive with the potential to expand over time. They developed thematic resonances that connected fashion-related research with the visual languages of photography, video, illustration, sound and graphic design.
Poised between installation and editorial practice, Pathos Formulas presented itself as a hybrid device combining archive, collage and publication. In line with IED's educational approach, the focus is placed on process. Collaborations become an integral part of the project, generating narratives in which historical visions references and speculative visions overlap and transform.
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